A Time in Pokhara

It was finally time to say goodbye to my crew at Heaven Hill. We had some great times together roaming the villages of the region and helping to teach an amazing group of children. Early in the morning on October 30th, I began the long journey to Pokhara.

I love these people. So wonderful and kind. They will be missed, and maybe we will meet again!

 

October 30th

 On the jeep ride down the mountain from Gaunshahar, we passed by a few smaller villages.

A child looks down from a house our Jeep stopped at.

As we made our way down the mountain, I saw one of my favorite students and waved goodbye to her  from the jeep. She stood on the cliff side waving continuously until we went out of sight. I was going to miss these great kids. But it was time to move onward with the adventure.

The ride to Pokhara took 6 hours, but the nice thing was I ended up heading down with one of the other volunteers who was also leaving, so I had some company this time around. I did not take any pictures of the countryside as I could not get a good angle from where I was sitting on the bus.

Some kind of street dance was taking place outside the clinic where I went to get my final vaccinations.

 

When I finally arrived in Pokhara, I quickly realized that this city is like nowhere else in Nepal. It has many modern amenities and the central Lakeside area is designed almost entirely with tourists in mind. It is quite modern and westernized, yet it still contains hidden pieces of the quaint charm that you will find in the rest of the country. It was already dinnertime by the time I was done checking in to my hostel. I had walked down the main street of Lakeside and noticed a place called Godfather Pizzeria, and I thought about how it had been over a month since I had had a single slice! It was time to treat myself.

Swanky!

Cheese, mushroom and onion. My favorite!

It was not just my taste buds yearning for pizza that made this experience memorable... This was an objectively good pizza.

You see little fountains like this in restaurants in the U.S., but this was quite a sight to see in Nepal.

 

This delicious chocolatey Belgian waffle was one of the best things I've ever eaten.

Street dancers on Lakeside! They were very good!

 October 31st - Halloween!

In the morning I walked to the next hostel I planned to stay at, where I would remain for the rest of my time in Pokhara. I decided to take the path by the lake, which is much more quiet and peaceful than the main street.

Welcome to Fewa Lake

Early in the morning, lots of boats are waiting to give rides around or across the lake. It's lovely how many different colors there are.

"No Brain, No Problem." I suppose logically, if you did not have a brain, you would not be aware of any problems. Though I can't be sure what this artist meant.

In Pokhara there is a small amusement park: "Pokhara Disneyland." Later on, I would see it lit up and in motion.

Some inspiring quotes all assembled together.

Finally getting to the north side of the lake, the area where my hostel was located.

 

I had arrived a bit early, and they were not ready to check me in. I left my huge backpack and headed off to do two things. I firstly needed to go to see if I could meet a powerful sound healer I had heard rumors of: a yogi who uses the vibrations of Tibetan Bowls, to see if he could alleviate my chronic back pain to any degree. I would then go to the Immigration Office to extend my Visa since I would be staying in Nepal a bit past the 30-day mark.

I could only go off of a tip I had received from another volunteer I had met back in Gaunshahar. The yogi is said to reside in "the monastery." I soon realized there were several monasteries in the local area. With intuition and a sense of adventure as my guides, I set off down the street towards one that I thought might be it. Fortunately at one fork in the road, I found a sign pointing out the way to "Monastery."

As I climbed to the top of a rather steep hill, I saw these stairs, decorated with prayer flags, just a bit up ahead. I had the feeling that this might be the place.

It's beautiful how they catch the sun.

Looking down on Pokhara from above.

A large Buddha and shrine sit at the highest point of the monastery.

I gave puja of incense and rupees.

 

I had arrived during a yoga class, so I waited for them to finish. The yogi came out after the class and when I asked him about healing, he invited me to come the next morning.

Things had fallen into place perfectly. For now, it was on to the day's next activity.

Some abstract street art.

One of my favorites on this walk.

A demonic tattoo studio!

As tempting as it was, I did not stop to get a tattoo.

I stopped at a coffee shop, Koffee Katz on the way to treat myself to some real espresso! It felt a bit strange enjoying such a luxury when my whole time in Nepal up to this point I had been sustaining myself on Nesquick!

 

After a short time in the Immigration office, it was time to spend the rest of my day exploring and having a good time. I set off on foot towards the World Peace Pagoda.

The place I stopped for lunch has an amazing view of the lake.

There are so many different varieties of Dal Bhat. Even with all of the options in Pokhara, I still liked to enjoy some traditional Nepali cuisine.

I want flowers like this on my patio some day.

As I walked, I saw this little snake temple across a little stream.

I walked up to take a bridge and then cut back through the weeds to get to this place, where I gave puja of incense and left some rupees.

 

I spent about an hour in this interesting little park, which is where the next set of photos were taken.

When the water is low, do these stairs actually lead somewhere?

A wonderful view of the dam. On the other side of this dam, Fewa Lake drains into the Pardi Khola river.

In the distance I saw a little rope bridge. I decided that for my next step, I would cross it and see what awaits on the other side.

After a while I made it to the bridge. It leads across to a beautiful forested and less developed side of Pokhara.

The view from the bridge.

People swimming, bathing, and doing laundry at the river.

A small dirt path leads up to the jungle... Raniban Park!

After climbing quite a few stairs, I was delighted to find myself walking around and enjoying the nature of this part of Nepal. It is amazing how you can walk a few hundred meters and end up in a wild, untamed jungle. Since it is in the middle of a major city, I felt safe walking around here alone.

What a treat! I found myself at the top of a small mountain looking down on this lovely city.

I met a nice couple up here. They offered to take my picture.

Women working to tend the path.

On my way down, I came upon a lovely family. As usual, only the man talked to me. Women and children tend to stay quiet in this country. He asked how my walk was and he asked if I had seen any Tigers! At first I thought he was joking, but he said that indeed, there are some tigers in these forests around Pokhara. As I was all alone, I must say I am glad I did not, in fact, see any tigers!

I posed for a picture with my new friends and accompanied them down the rest of the mountain.

My next stop was the Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave, on the way to the World Peace Pagoda. I took a country road so I could observe the village life on my way.

I finally arrived at the cave and realized that they charged a small entrance fee. I figured it would be worthwhile. In the research I had done before my travels, and from what I had learned from locals, I knew that the oldest temple buildings in Nepal and India are at most between 1,000 and 1,500 years old. But caves harbor some of the most truly ancient temples.

A beautiful spiraling stairway descends into this sacred cave.

At the entrance to the cave, a sleeping version of the snake god I had encountered earlier.

Little deities decorate the descent.

Aum namah Shivaya.

The mouth of the cave. It goes very deep!

Nandhi, the vehicle of Lord Shiva.

Winding passages lead to the true centerpiece, a marvelous idol of Shiva.

 

I do not have pictures of the inner sanctum, as photography is forbidden in this sacred area. I gave a very deeply felt puja to Shiva here and proceeded further into the cave.

Water trickles down from the ceiling.

Here is the crystal clear pool. It is hard to see well with a picture due to the strange lighting in here.

I wonder how deep this pool actually goes.

A waterfall comes down into the cave, but I could not get a clear picture with my phone.

The cave sports some stunning formations.

At the exit of the cave I gave puja to Ganesha.

 

I had some interest in the nearby Devi's Falls, but I did not want to pay the entrance fee at first. Once I realized that this waterfall drains into the cave, I thought it would be cool to go see it.

Shiva linga.

This area is quite popular. And I see why--it is a wonderful sight.

This is the mouth of the cave that the waterfall spills into. No, you cannot get into the cave unless you were to jump in the water and let it take you! The falls are also known as Davis falls, named after a person who got carried away by the current and was dashed to death on the rocks when they fell into the cave.

This may be the first time I've seen a waterfall that just plunges down into the depths of the Earth.

I love the symmetry of the approach to this magical wishing well.

If you want your wish to come true, you must throw a coin and get it to catch on the idol in the center.

I won't tell you what my wish was, but I will say that I finally made it after throwing at least ten coins.

A small park next to the waterfall.

A Buddha idol.

It was getting a bit late in the day, so I caught a ride up to the World Peace Pagoda. It is a bit of a hike to get there from the main parking lot. Once my taxi got me there, he said he would wait for me to come back down, and I told him that I might go down the other side, so he should wait for me till 6, and if I didn't come, he should leave. He warned me that if it starts to get dark that I should not go that way, as it becomes very dangerous at dusk.

As I climbed, I realized how tired I was. I restored my reserves with a strange Nepali energy drink. "Red Blue." I think I can tell where they got their inspiration...

From the top, there is a beautiful view of the lake and city.

 

Unfortunately, I was too late. The Pagoda was closed to visitors for the night. I would have to return earlier in the day, tomorrow. I figured not all was lost, as I could enjoy a nice hike down to the other side of the mountain, where I could take a boat across the lake back to the Lakeside area.

The path alongside the Pagoda area.

The sound of worship.

The only view I could get of the Pagoda today was a view from the edge of the forest outside.

 

The path on the other side of the Pagoda goes straight down to the lake. It is not paved, and it does not have any shops or restaurants. It is just a single, simple path through dense jungle. I saw I still had about 30 minutes of light left, and with confidence, I began my descent, which I assumed would be speedy.

As I progressed down the path, the sun got lower and lower in the sky and I realized this would be a bit longer of a journey than I realized.

As I continued on, it got darker and darker, and I suddenly remembered what my friend from Ranibatar park had said about tigers in the jungle. I also recalled the danger that my cab driver had warned me about on the way up. I cursed myself for underestimating the length of this walk, as I soon realized that in short order, I would be trekking alone through the jungle in pitch black. Having no weapon to defend myself with, I grabbed a large and pointy rock and held it firmly in my right hand.

As I looked out around the jungle, things got darker and darker, and I heard strange unfamiliar sounds and rustling. There was nobody around and I suddenly felt a surge of adrenaline as I was gripped with a deep sense of terror. This would not be the first time I experienced pure fear on this trip, though this was much closer to true panic than the time I was facing the bull and leeches in Gaunshahar which I talk about in this entry.

I began hiking up the hill much faster than I had been going down. I felt the need to get back to the Pagoda where there were people, and run down to my driver who would still be waiting, if I was lucky. I saw no animals, but my brain assumed every twitching leaf and strange sound was a fierce predatory feline stalking me. I realized that I could be being followed. The next sound that made me jump sent me sprinting up the path. This was perhaps the most intense fear I have ever felt in my life. I know it was self-created, but there was a real possibility, however slim, that I was in danger of being eaten by a tiger or leopard, and my instincts kicked in. I was like a prey animal running for its life. My heart was pounding and sprinting up the path in this warm, humid weather while clutching a heavy stone caused me to start pouring sweat.

A loud sound at the top of the path made me jump! I realized that it was some young men by the Pagoda... I had made it back in one piece. I was literally panting and clutching my chest. This was the moment when I realized that I had to be a lot more careful next time. These are not the familiar forests of Colorado.

Who knows what hides in the depths of this thick foliage. It is not like the forests of Colorado where you can see things coming.

 

I finally made it back down the populated side and got a ride from my cab driver to the hostel. I talked to him about what I went through, and he told me that while it is rare, there have been people who disappeared in the jungles of Pokhara. He said that not only tigers, but leopards as well, come out to hunt at dusk. I sure was glad I turned back when I did, as it was twilight by the time I had gotten to him.

When I got back to my hostel, I checked in and then went to a nearby restaurant to meet two of my volunteer friends from Heaven Hill who had just arrived in Pokhara, Charlotte and Chelsie from England.

The doggie at this shop was so sweet. He still had a red mark leftover from Tihar!

One of these ladies had a special kind of lassi. It is a Pokhara specialty...

 

We headed up to see a movie at Movie Garden, but we were a bit late so we decided to come back the next night.

The hidden path to get to Movie Garden.

The view from the top. We got there in the middle of a movie and left after I snapped this photo.

We walked around, looking at the city and buying snacks for our hungry bellies. We walked through Pokhara Disneyland, all lit up and in motion.

I had tried all day to find a costume shop with no luck. But at least Lakeside sported some cool Hallowe'en decorations.

Happy Hallowe'en!

November 1st

I set off early this day to get to the World Peace Pagoda with enough time to fully enjoy it. As I was not in a rush, I had the opportunity to forego a cab and hike up the mountain to get there. The buses let off at the foot of the mountain. From there, I had the joy of making the trek up there and stopping at some little temples along the way.

This little temple had many shrines to different gods. I gave puja and proceeded.

I am sure this sand mandala has some significance, but there was no one around for me to ask.

The hike up the mountain is lovely and natural. It is quite steep but very enchanting.

The views would only get more amazing from here.

By the time I had reached these stairs, I was already feeling tired! Still a long way to go...

I set my sights on a beautiful tree whose shade I would rest beneath and drink some water.

 

As I sat beneath the tree and fanned myself, I set my sights over the edge to take in the view. A sweet little girl came up to me and wanted to see my fan. She was quite thrilled with it and wanted to pose for some pictures! I can't remember her name now.

She then asked to see my phone and I could not say no. The next pictures and videos are what she took. Too cute to not share.

I do not know why she was so enchanted by my fan.

 I enjoyed taking a little break from the oppressive heat of the sun with the locals. I resumed my trek to the summit.

The view from under the tree.

I had come a long way already!

Rivers in the distance.

Just as I was wondering if I was still going the right way, I came around a bend and saw the World Peace Pagoda in the distance.

When I made it to the final stretch, things switched from nature to busy tourist shops.

It felt strange to see the Coca Cola logo so close to a sacred place.

I decided to stop and have a nice cup of coffee. It was very fancy stuff.

This cigarette I bummed from a Chinese man was quite delicious and unique. "Liqun"

I am a fan of taking my nice little breaks when hiking.

"Welcome to World Peace Pagoda." Finally!

Another few flights of stairs brings you to the approach.

The Pagoda comes fully into view.

The World Peace Pagodas are special structures that resonate an intention of love and peace. The one in Pokhara is the most well-known and probably one of the most frequently visited due to its convenient location for visitors to Pokhara. There are many World Peace Pagodas, mostly in Nepal, India and Japan. Most of them were started by the Japanese Buddhist monk Nichidatsu Fujii. At the base of every pagoda you will find a plaque with the Lotus Sutra Chant: "Namu Myoho Renge Kyo." This is a powerful mantra that spreads peace and wisdom throughout the world. I will talk more about this mantra in my blog post about my time in Lumbini.

The view from up on the Pagoda.

This World Peace Pagoda has a different image of the Buddha facing each of the four directions. They depict important moments in the life of the Buddha. It was difficult to get closer pictures of the explanatory placards due to the brass bars in the way.

All are required to remove their shoes when they ascend the Pagoda itself. I did my circumambulations and recited the mantra "Om Mani Padme Hum" at least a hundred times. I bowed to each of the buddhas. There are four tiers to the Pagoda, and I did my clockwise circles around each level, both on the way up and again on the way down.

These trails go into the mountains behind the Pagoda, and they supposedly lead to some Buddhist monasteries. I had other plans for my day, however, so I just snapped this photo.

I love how every stupa I visit is surrounded by the flags whipping about in the wind. Their almost violent fluttering serves as a contrast to the stillness of the stupa structure itself.

Looking down on the lake and Pokhara. On the opposite side of the lake is the hostel I was staying at.

A woman hard at work, cutting this tree with an interesting sickle-like blade tool.

The sun was low at this point, but I still had plenty of daylight left. This time I made the journey down through the jungle with confidence.

I passed this shrine on the way.

The view from halfway down.

The path led me past a sacred Pipal tree.

A rest stop on the way down. I only stopped for the photo.

The wild rose bush framed this shot perfectly.

These are the little boats that take you across the lake.

I had been looking forward to getting on the lake all day. There were some nice pictures from the surface of the lake. I timed this to be around sunset, but unfortunately the clouds did not afford any cool light effects this time.

I still enjoyed the misty images across the surface of the lake. This one in particular seems otherworldly.

This Hindu temple is an island in the middle of the lake. I was on my way to meet people, so I did not have time to stop here to give puja.

I had to capture an image of this beggar, as I have never seen someone with such a body before. While it felt a bit voyeuristic, the fact is that this man is just as much a part of the world of Pokhara as anyone else on the streets.

Another little shrine in the middle of the street.

 

Finally, upon returning to my hostel, I rendezvoused with my two English friends. We decided that for this, our last night together, we would make our way to the cool little Movie Garden. Tucked away in some backstreets, this charming little private venue is a perfect example of the quaint, visitor-friendly feel of Pokhara. Replete with cozy chairs, a bar with pizza, and friendly servers to bring your orders to your seat, it is a great place to chill and hang out with new friends. The movie that played on this night was Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, which I was delighted to see for the first time in such a unique place. And yes, the film was in English.

 

 After our movie, we meandered about the town for a while. Outside our hostel, I bid farewell to my Charlotte and Chelsie. Perhaps some day we will meet again. 

The lights reflect beautifully off the lake at night. This is the view from outside my hostel.

 

November 2nd
 

 On my last day in Pokhara, I set out to find a revered mushroom requested by my friend back home, the Yarsa Gumba (known as Cordyceps among English Speakers). After roaming some back streets, I was able to find it.

This would be the last opportunity to have a crepe for breakfast for a while, so I treated myself. Yum!

Nice vibes behind the counter here.

 

My last special Pokhara treat. "Fried Ice Cream" made right in front of me. How touristy.

I mailed off all the souvenirs and trinkets from this leg of Nepal. It was now time to head south, to Chitwan and then Lumbini.

The inside of my bus looked like a mini-temple, as is the case with many busses in Nepal.

 

The next few pictures I took on the bus ride to Chitwan. I was going to stay in tiny Sauraha, right at the edge of the National Park. As busses are unpredictable in these parts, I didn't end up arriving until the middle of the night.

 

People still had their lights up for Tihar in Bharatpur, the large town I passed through.

I had to take a tuk-tuk 15 kilometers to get to Sauraha. They have lots of statues like this on the main streets.

When I finally got to my hostel, on a dark street with very little light at the edge of the town bordered the massive primeval jungle, I was relieved they were still waiting up for me. I talked with my host and they set me up with a guide for a single-day walking tour of Chitwan. I had a quick dinner and went to sleep, as we started at 6:00am.

This nice gazebo sits in the back yard of the Hostel, the Tiger Corner Inn.

How eerie it was to look out my balcony and see nothing but pitch black forest. The bugs are quite noisy this late in the night, and you really don't know what's behind the trees looking back out at you... Well, the next morning, I would find out.